The #SOIMolly dress pattern had been on my to sew list last year, and made it to my #2018makenine patterns. Having sewn the Tilly and the buttons Coco in a dressmaking workshop in 2017, I decided that I would try out a Sew Over It jersey pattern (I have mostly been sewing Tilly’s patterns for a couple of years now and wanted to explore some other independent pattern companies).
I fell in love with this Chevron print fabric on a trip to my local fabric shop with my friend and fellow sewist @kellyloupreece. The fabric is so heavy and soft that I was convinced it was a Ponte di Roma, also it was such a bargain! When I brought it home and started to work with it I soon realised it had a substantial amount of viscose in it. In fact I think it probably is a heavier weight viscose stretch jersey. I was so passionate about my vision that I ploughed on regardless, and in the end I feel like it was worth it. It certainly kept me occupied through the recent blizzards of Storm Emma, or as my friends tell me Emmageddon! I actually quite like the idea of a storm in my name, it’s a very powerful metaphor.
I cut the Size 10 top, and added some additional drafted pieces for some width at the hip. My dress form was really useful for fitting the dress, I took it in twice and I think the shape works really well – given the fabric has more drape than a Ponte. I can certainly see myself making another Ponte version of the dress, perhaps in a spot or floral print with the spring on it’s way.
Sadly the fabric does not photograph well, I have included a close up of the dress so that you can see how cool the chevron print is, and the true surface of the fabric. The dress is so soft on my skin, and it fits like a glove.
The pattern was really easy to follow, and Sew Over It include the stitches, widths and lengths that are most effective when sewing with a stretch fabric. Sewing the neckline was my biggest challenge, I found that the instructions were very clear, when altering the neckline and fitting it correctly. I really was stunned at the results I achieved with this pattern so soon. My personal points for improvement, are my topstitching around the neckline and the finishing on the hem. Although I think all of the above would have been easier in a heavier jersey with cotton, this fabric was certainly very slippery to feed through the machine. I would definitely try, where possible, not to get so fixated on a fabric that I disregard the pattern’s fabric recommendations. The dress is great, but ultimately it would have looked more effective in a Ponte.
I know that I will wear this dress to work often, and I could definitely wear it out at the weekends. I think it would look good with a black heeled ankle boot, I am sure I have a pair somewhere… I’m off to find them!